Saturday 18 July 2020

My Chattisgarh Diaries: the Majestic Chitrakote Waterfall

I have lost count the number of times I arrived in a new destination at an ungodly hour during my many journeys!!!

My arrival at Jagdalpur was no different. Jagdalpur is a city in the tribal district of Bastar in Chhattisgarh. The night bus from Raipur arrived in Jagdalpur when the whole town was in deep sleep. It must have been around 2:00 a.m. No surprise that I spend some time at the small bus station. The open waiting platform had a few sleepers here and there on the cemented floor. I huddled somewhere. Time passed slowly in that cold night. Dogs howled in some faraway distance. Occasionally a few buses arrived from different places. I waited and waited for daybreak. My patience was running out. I couldn’t wait a minute more.
when I am in Chattisgarh
I found the dormitory facility at the bus station unsuitable. So I left the bus station, crossed the main road, and walked over to a hotel looking for a room. The sleepy receptionist reluctantly woke up (I can totally understand) when I entered the hotel. Thankfully I got a room. I slept immediately. 

Morning came. 

I knew where I wished to go for a day visit. The boarding point for Chitrakote bound bus was somewhere in Jagdalpur town. I arrived at the boarding point by auto. I had to wait for considerable time before the bus showed its face. Now, Chitrakote waterfall is nearly 40 kms from Jagdalpur town. The bus started around 9:30 a.m. from Jagdalpur. During the course of its 90 minutes journey, the bus stopped at a few places dropping and picking up passengers enroute. The bus eventually arrived at Chitrakote bus stop by 11:00 a.m. 

The bus driver informed, “This bus will leave at 3:00 p.m. for the return journey to Jagdalpur town. So, please be here at the bus stop before the departure time. Do not be late.”
bus for Chitrakote from Jagdalpur
finally arrived at Chitrakote
It was a short walk from the stoppage point to Chitrakote waterfall. I couldn’t see the waterfall yet, but could literally hear the roar of the waterfall from a distance. And when the waterfall finally came into view, I gasped in wonder. It was January (winter time) and naturally there was less water. Still…the first view of Chitrakote waterfall mesmerized me. Wow!!! The beautiful waterfall is situated on Indravati River. The height of the waterfall is 90 feet. The water is reddish during monsoon, and it looks white during summer/winter. Forest and green vegetation on both sides of the river added to the aesthetic beauty of the place overall.
Chitrakote Waterfall is in Chattisgarh.
first view of Chitrakote Waterfall


There were not many visitors at that time. A few of them were at the lookout zone; and some were seen walking over the dry rocks. It was possible to walk over the dry rocks because being winter there was no or very less water. I noticed 1-2 local youths asking the visitors whether they were interested to be clicked with the majestic waterfall as the background. Some accepted the offer and some refused. 

Spending some time at the lookout zone, I carefully walked over the dry rock of the river to go near the waterfall. I hopped and skipped at a few places; and reached near the waterfall – the point from where the water plunges down below. Visitors were busy in taking pictures here. A word of caution: one needed to be careful, infact extra careful not to go near the edge. I climbed further by holding the rocks and reached a vantage point. I sat here on the bare flat rock for a long time. The water of the Indravati River flowed calmly, but the water that plunged below made deafening roar. What a roar! A beautiful rainbow formed near the cascading waterfall. Slowly and slowly the place was filled with visitors. A picnic group could be seen upstream. There is no harm as long as these picnickers kept the place clean and disposed their trash properly. Problem arose when these so called picnickers are irresponsible and careless with no civic sense. A few men were bathing further away.
a solitary boatman and the rainbow at Chitrakote Waterfall
less water as it was winter time
visitors at Chitrakote waterfall
Chitrakote waterfall is also called the Niagara of India.
Chitrakote Waterfall
one for the memories with Chitrakote Waterfall

I wished to go for a boat ride. So I retraced back my steps and passed by the lookout zone. A cemented pathway beside a govt. hotel linked a shaded stair of many steps to reach the bottom of the riverbank. The stair was steep. Some portions of it needed repairing. A small makeshift shack was nearby where a lady was occupied in preparing local snacks. Walking on the sandy riverbank with rocky pebbles, I came to a shed that was clumsily put up with a tarpaulin cover supported by a few wooden poles. A middle aged man sat with a notebook scribbling something. Another man sat beside him.

I asked without addressing anyone, “What is the cost for the boat ride?”

Looking up at me the man with the notebook replied, “Twenty rupees per person. How many are there with you?”

“Only me,” I informed him.
boat ride info during winter
stairs that leads to the boat ride spot
steep stairs to the riverbank
a snack stall at the river bank
I took a life jacket and approached the wooden boat. The man with the notebook informed from his seat to the boatman, “Take the girl in your boat along with the family group.”

I noticed a family approaching one of the marooned boats. The family comprising of daughter, mother, and father sat in the middle. I quickly joined them. One boatman took his place at the front and the other boatman sat at the back. That made eight of us. The boatmen slowly started rowing the boat in the calm water of Indravati River. As the boat inched closer to the cascading waterfall, the boatmen had to try harder to manoeuvre against the strong current. The jet spray from the waterfall drenched us. The water was cold. It was absolutely fun and exciting to be so close to the roaring waterfall. The boatmen brought us safely back at the riverbank after a few minutes. The boat ride lasted 10-15 minutes. This boat ride is possible only during the dry seasons. I spend some time exploring the pebble strewn riverbank…sitting and soaking my bare feet into the cold water of the river. Monsoon is preferably the best time to come and see this majestic waterfall touted as the “Niagara of India”.
Chitrakote Waterfall
as we get ready for the boatride at Indravati River

Chitrakote Waterfall and Indravati River
one for the memories
Indravati River
 

I had to be at the bus stop before 3:00 p.m. for the return journey. There is “I LOVE BASTAR” sign some distance away from the bus stop. A touristic option for visitors to click a few snaps with the giant sign. Local women were selling locally made souvenirs on a sidewalk. Some ladies were selling vegetables and other materials. A couple of snack stalls and grocery stalls made up the rest of the place. I sampled some local snacks at a stall. The freshly prepared ‘vada’ was hot and crispy. It was served with spicy tomato chutney. It costed twenty rupees. The bus honked. It was time to leave. By 4:30 p.m. we arrived safely in Jagdalpur city.
I LOVE BASTAR installation
Local souvenirs on sale at Chitrakote.
local souvenirs on sale at Chitrakote

local produce on sale at Chitrakote
freshly prepared vada at a snack stall
local products on sale at Chitrakote
local produce on sale at Chitrakote
local products on sale at Chitrakote

With 30-40 minutes of daylight remaining, I decided to check out the local market and Bastar Maharaja’s Palace. The beautiful red and white façade of Maa Danteshwari temple stared at me. Devotees were coming and going. I didn’t venture into the temple.  The temple is within Bastar Maharaja’s Palace. It is a white and blue palace. I was allowed to enter only one room in the palace where pictures of maharajas and ranis were displayed. I was asked to enter the room barefoot. There was nothing much more. By the time I left the palace, it was dusk. There were a couple of restaurants nearby. I grabbed something to eat and gulped down some hot tea. I bought some fresh fruits from the local market and returned to the hotel on a shared auto. That ended my first day of sightseeing here.
local products on sale at Jagdalpur market
Maa Danteshwari temple in Jagdalpur.
Maa Danteshwari temple in Jagdalpur
Bastar Palace in Jagdalpur.
Bastar Palace
Bastar Palace is in Jagdalpur.
Bastar Palace

Thank you for stopping by!
Happy travelling feet!

Travelled on: 15 January 2020

© The content and pictures are copyright of Hema Hazarika (thehaflonggirl).

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