Thursday 23 July 2020

My Chattisgarh Diaries: the Mesmerizing Tirathgarh Waterfall

Tirathgarh waterfall is in Baster region of Chattisgarh.
Tirathgarh Waterfall
My first ever visit to the Indian State of Chattisgarh was turning out pretty interesting so far. The tribal region of Bastar was a complete surprise package. The region is blessed with many beautiful waterfalls. I could visit two waterfalls located near Jagdalpur town. One was Chitrakote Waterfall and the other was Tirathgarh Waterfall. I have already written about my visit to Chitrakote Waterfall. 
Here is the article link: 

https://thehaflonggirl.blogspot.com/2020/07/in-land-of-bastar-and-majestic.html

Chitrakote and Tirathgarh waterfalls can be easily clubbed together for a single day visit provided one had their own personal vehicle. It is difficult to visit these two waterfalls on the same day if one is using public transport since the waterfalls are located in two different directions. Read on about the day visit to the beautiful Tirathgarh Waterfall. 

The breathtaking Tirathgarh Waterfall is around 35 kms from Jagdalpur town. I took a public bus from the main bus stand. There is actually no direct bus from the town to the waterfall. It was a long journey on the state highway. The bus dropped me at the entry gate of Kanger Valley National Park. When one is coming from Jagdalpur side, the road leading to the waterfall is on the right side of the road and entry to Kanger Valley National Park is on the left side. Getting down from the bus, I crossed the road and waited at the check post. A small outpost with a tin roof acted as the check post. There was a sitting bench  as well. A man manning the check post called me to come and sit on the bench. It was again very far, around 6 kms, from the check post to Tirathgarh Waterfall.

I waited at the check post with the hope to get a lift from a passing vehicle to the waterfall. During my waiting time at the check post, I struck up a conversation with the man. He stopped a guy coming on a bike and requested him to drop me near the waterfall. I hopped onto the guy’s bike. The bike vroomed vroomed on the smooth tarmac road with dense forest on both sides. It was just us on the solitary forest road. The biker safely dropped me at the entrance of the waterfall.
There is a check post for entry to Tirathgarh Waterfall. The waterfall is 6 kms from the check post.
check post for Tirathgarh Waterfall
entry fee for vehicles from check post to Tirathgarh waterfall
one for the memories at the check post
the forested road from the check post to Tirathgarh Waterfall
An open field and cluster of snack stalls led to the cemented arched gate entrance of the waterfall. Many winding stairs led to the bottom of the waterfall. Since it is a popular site, there were already hordes of people around the waterfall. It is in Kanger Valley National Park. River Kanger and its tributaries, ‘Manuga’ and ‘Bahar’ together produce this beautiful Tirathgarh waterfall. It is a year round destination. But as always with waterfalls, during and after monsoon is the best time to visit this mesmerizing waterfall to experience its beauty and glory. Since I visited in January i.e. winter time there was less water, but still worth it. One can enjoy the full beauty of the waterfall from the top or can take steps down to see it.
finally at Tirathgarh Waterfall
entrance to Tirathgarh Waterfall
stairs leading to Tirathgarh WAterfall

Tirathgarh Waterfall
Tirathgarh Waterfall

The white water cascaded down a series of rocky outcrops giving the effect of many waterfalls rather than just one. You will forget your tiredness once you reach the bottom after climbing down the many steps and behold this natural beauty. The multiple falls created pools that was a good opportunity to take a dip or two in the cold water. As always be careful while swimming and taking a dip. There are viewing decks from where you can safely watch this waterfall. The surrounding landscape of Kanger Valley added to the overall beauty of the place. There is a small temple on a huge rock opposite to the waterfall. The top of this tiny hill offered a very good view of the waterfall. Do be carefull because monkeys are frequent visitors since the waterfall lies within the national park.
Tirathgarh Waterfall
Tirtahgarh Waterfall
rocky landscape of Kanger Valley
many monkeys in the area
one for the memories with Tirathgarh Waterfall

many monkey visitors
temple on a huge rock opp. to the waterfall
Tirathgarh waterfall is 35 kms from Jagdalpur town, in Chattisgarh.
Tirathgarh waterfall 
one for the memories with Tirathgarh Waterfall 
You can find series of isolated spots if you venture further down the levels and probably can have your own oasis of peace and calm away from the maddening crowd. I climbed down till the second level. Many visitors thronged the place that day. Families, couples, young boys and girls were frolicking near the water spots, taking a dip, and most of them were in the mood to get drenched under the cascading waterfall. I was also in the mood to do exactly that, but alas I didn’t bring along any spare clothes. So what I did was simply lazing around the water spots, feeling the breeze caressing my face, listening to the sound of birds chirping, and soaking in the tranquillity of the place. The roar of the cascading waterfall was therapeutic to the ears…the ears that were so overburdened with the city noises. When I was at the second level of the waterfall, ofcourse one needs to take the steep stairs to reach there, I stood under the waterfall for a few minutes without getting drenched wholly. The platform was slippery. The overhead rock acted as a cosy shelter. It was pure unadultered fun to be right under a cascading waterfall. The waterfall felt like a milky white curtain. The cold spray hits you and you try your best to balance yourself on the slippery platform lest you don’t slip and fall. There is a huge boulder in the pool nearby; a series of smaller boulders led to the huge boulder. I gingerly hopped and skipped over the smaller boulders to reach the bigger one. Once I reached the bigger boulder, I sat there for a long time. I was literally sitting in the middle of the pool created by the waterfall. My phone camera was busy in happily clicking countless pictures of the waterfall.



the second level of Tirathgarh Waterfall
water of the waterfall flows further down
rocky landscape
Tirathgarh Waterfall
visitors at the wtaerfall
the rocky bed
children having fun at the pool created by the waterfall
Tirathgarh Waterfall

                                         

                                          

one for the memories with Tirathgrah Waterfall

a temple at Tirathgarh Waterfall
steps that lead from the first level to the second level
After spending my two hours of happy time with the magnificent waterfall, that served as an ideal spot for relaxation, picnic, and adventure I left the place. The makeshift shops near the parking spot sold bhajiyas, biscuits, chips, tea, cold drinks, water bottles, etc. Some stalls even served you rice, dal either veg or non-veg for lunch. I gulped down some hot cup of tea and freshly prepared bhajiyas at a stall. Since this particular stall wasn’t serving lunch, and so I proceeded to another nearby stall to have a late veg lunch. The lunch was simple, but freshly prepared right on the spot on a traditional chulha (stove). It costed 50 rupees.
shops and eateries near Tirathgarh Waterfall
traditional chulha
food being cooked on a traditional chulha (stove) 
veg lunch for 50 rupees
the lady at her shop where I had lunch
It was 3:00 p.m. I waited at the parking spot hoping to get a lift till the check post. It was a long wait. A few local village folks were sitting on the ground near me. They told me, “No need to worry. You will get some vehicle.” After a long wait, I saw a white car coming. I signalled them to stop. I requested the middle-aged couple inside the car if they could drop me till the check post. They immediately agreed. I hopped onto the front seat and was safely dropped at the requested spot. I thanked the couple. 

The entry gate to Kanger Valley National Park was right opposite to the check post on the state highway, the state highway that connects Jagdalpur nad Sukma. I knew it was already late, still asked the lady at the ticket counter. She informed me it was already too late for entry. I realized I should have come early in the morning instead. Nevermind…there is always the next time. With nothing much to do, I kept walking up and down, waiting for the return bus to Jagdalpur town. I got occupied in admiring the tall trees and serenity of the place. It was 4:00 p.m. The state highway cuts through the dense forest of the Kanger Valley National Park. One could listen to the forest noise when no vehicle was passing by. It was hush all around. The silence got sadly broken by the overbearing noise of random passing vehicle. I soaked in the stillness and silence at that spot in the middle of the state highway near the entry gate of Kanger Valley National Park. My reverie was broken when I saw a bus approaching from around a bend. The bus stopped and I boarded it for the return journey to Jagdalpur town. Since the state highway cuts through Kanger Valley National Park, half of the journey was truly scenic with hairpin bends at a few places. By 5:00 p.m. I was back at Jagdalpur town.


the state highway that connects Jagdalpur and Sukma
the entry gate to Kanger Valley National Park
ticket counter for entry to Kanger Valley Ntaional Park
the state highway passing through Kanger Valley National Park
on my way to Jagdalpur
Jagdalpur bus station
Jagdalpur Bus Station
Suffice to say, it was an unparalled joy to witness and experience this beautiful marvel of nature. I had a happy day!

Thank you for stopping by!
Happy travelling feet!

Travelled on: 16 January 2020

© The content and pictures are copyright of Hema Hazarika (thehaflonggirl).

Saturday 18 July 2020

My Chattisgarh Diaries: the Majestic Chitrakote Waterfall

I have lost count the number of times I arrived in a new destination at an ungodly hour during my many journeys!!!

My arrival at Jagdalpur was no different. Jagdalpur is a city in the tribal district of Bastar in Chhattisgarh. The night bus from Raipur arrived in Jagdalpur when the whole town was in deep sleep. It must have been around 2:00 a.m. No surprise that I spend some time at the small bus station. The open waiting platform had a few sleepers here and there on the cemented floor. I huddled somewhere. Time passed slowly in that cold night. Dogs howled in some faraway distance. Occasionally a few buses arrived from different places. I waited and waited for daybreak. My patience was running out. I couldn’t wait a minute more.
when I am in Chattisgarh
I found the dormitory facility at the bus station unsuitable. So I left the bus station, crossed the main road, and walked over to a hotel looking for a room. The sleepy receptionist reluctantly woke up (I can totally understand) when I entered the hotel. Thankfully I got a room. I slept immediately. 

Morning came. 

I knew where I wished to go for a day visit. The boarding point for Chitrakote bound bus was somewhere in Jagdalpur town. I arrived at the boarding point by auto. I had to wait for considerable time before the bus showed its face. Now, Chitrakote waterfall is nearly 40 kms from Jagdalpur town. The bus started around 9:30 a.m. from Jagdalpur. During the course of its 90 minutes journey, the bus stopped at a few places dropping and picking up passengers enroute. The bus eventually arrived at Chitrakote bus stop by 11:00 a.m. 

The bus driver informed, “This bus will leave at 3:00 p.m. for the return journey to Jagdalpur town. So, please be here at the bus stop before the departure time. Do not be late.”
bus for Chitrakote from Jagdalpur
finally arrived at Chitrakote
It was a short walk from the stoppage point to Chitrakote waterfall. I couldn’t see the waterfall yet, but could literally hear the roar of the waterfall from a distance. And when the waterfall finally came into view, I gasped in wonder. It was January (winter time) and naturally there was less water. Still…the first view of Chitrakote waterfall mesmerized me. Wow!!! The beautiful waterfall is situated on Indravati River. The height of the waterfall is 90 feet. The water is reddish during monsoon, and it looks white during summer/winter. Forest and green vegetation on both sides of the river added to the aesthetic beauty of the place overall.
Chitrakote Waterfall is in Chattisgarh.
first view of Chitrakote Waterfall


There were not many visitors at that time. A few of them were at the lookout zone; and some were seen walking over the dry rocks. It was possible to walk over the dry rocks because being winter there was no or very less water. I noticed 1-2 local youths asking the visitors whether they were interested to be clicked with the majestic waterfall as the background. Some accepted the offer and some refused. 

Spending some time at the lookout zone, I carefully walked over the dry rock of the river to go near the waterfall. I hopped and skipped at a few places; and reached near the waterfall – the point from where the water plunges down below. Visitors were busy in taking pictures here. A word of caution: one needed to be careful, infact extra careful not to go near the edge. I climbed further by holding the rocks and reached a vantage point. I sat here on the bare flat rock for a long time. The water of the Indravati River flowed calmly, but the water that plunged below made deafening roar. What a roar! A beautiful rainbow formed near the cascading waterfall. Slowly and slowly the place was filled with visitors. A picnic group could be seen upstream. There is no harm as long as these picnickers kept the place clean and disposed their trash properly. Problem arose when these so called picnickers are irresponsible and careless with no civic sense. A few men were bathing further away.
a solitary boatman and the rainbow at Chitrakote Waterfall
less water as it was winter time
visitors at Chitrakote waterfall
Chitrakote waterfall is also called the Niagara of India.
Chitrakote Waterfall
one for the memories with Chitrakote Waterfall

I wished to go for a boat ride. So I retraced back my steps and passed by the lookout zone. A cemented pathway beside a govt. hotel linked a shaded stair of many steps to reach the bottom of the riverbank. The stair was steep. Some portions of it needed repairing. A small makeshift shack was nearby where a lady was occupied in preparing local snacks. Walking on the sandy riverbank with rocky pebbles, I came to a shed that was clumsily put up with a tarpaulin cover supported by a few wooden poles. A middle aged man sat with a notebook scribbling something. Another man sat beside him.

I asked without addressing anyone, “What is the cost for the boat ride?”

Looking up at me the man with the notebook replied, “Twenty rupees per person. How many are there with you?”

“Only me,” I informed him.
boat ride info during winter
stairs that leads to the boat ride spot
steep stairs to the riverbank
a snack stall at the river bank
I took a life jacket and approached the wooden boat. The man with the notebook informed from his seat to the boatman, “Take the girl in your boat along with the family group.”

I noticed a family approaching one of the marooned boats. The family comprising of daughter, mother, and father sat in the middle. I quickly joined them. One boatman took his place at the front and the other boatman sat at the back. That made eight of us. The boatmen slowly started rowing the boat in the calm water of Indravati River. As the boat inched closer to the cascading waterfall, the boatmen had to try harder to manoeuvre against the strong current. The jet spray from the waterfall drenched us. The water was cold. It was absolutely fun and exciting to be so close to the roaring waterfall. The boatmen brought us safely back at the riverbank after a few minutes. The boat ride lasted 10-15 minutes. This boat ride is possible only during the dry seasons. I spend some time exploring the pebble strewn riverbank…sitting and soaking my bare feet into the cold water of the river. Monsoon is preferably the best time to come and see this majestic waterfall touted as the “Niagara of India”.
Chitrakote Waterfall
as we get ready for the boatride at Indravati River

Chitrakote Waterfall and Indravati River
one for the memories
Indravati River
 

I had to be at the bus stop before 3:00 p.m. for the return journey. There is “I LOVE BASTAR” sign some distance away from the bus stop. A touristic option for visitors to click a few snaps with the giant sign. Local women were selling locally made souvenirs on a sidewalk. Some ladies were selling vegetables and other materials. A couple of snack stalls and grocery stalls made up the rest of the place. I sampled some local snacks at a stall. The freshly prepared ‘vada’ was hot and crispy. It was served with spicy tomato chutney. It costed twenty rupees. The bus honked. It was time to leave. By 4:30 p.m. we arrived safely in Jagdalpur city.
I LOVE BASTAR installation
Local souvenirs on sale at Chitrakote.
local souvenirs on sale at Chitrakote

local produce on sale at Chitrakote
freshly prepared vada at a snack stall
local products on sale at Chitrakote
local produce on sale at Chitrakote
local products on sale at Chitrakote

With 30-40 minutes of daylight remaining, I decided to check out the local market and Bastar Maharaja’s Palace. The beautiful red and white façade of Maa Danteshwari temple stared at me. Devotees were coming and going. I didn’t venture into the temple.  The temple is within Bastar Maharaja’s Palace. It is a white and blue palace. I was allowed to enter only one room in the palace where pictures of maharajas and ranis were displayed. I was asked to enter the room barefoot. There was nothing much more. By the time I left the palace, it was dusk. There were a couple of restaurants nearby. I grabbed something to eat and gulped down some hot tea. I bought some fresh fruits from the local market and returned to the hotel on a shared auto. That ended my first day of sightseeing here.
local products on sale at Jagdalpur market
Maa Danteshwari temple in Jagdalpur.
Maa Danteshwari temple in Jagdalpur
Bastar Palace in Jagdalpur.
Bastar Palace
Bastar Palace is in Jagdalpur.
Bastar Palace

Thank you for stopping by!
Happy travelling feet!

Travelled on: 15 January 2020

© The content and pictures are copyright of Hema Hazarika (thehaflonggirl).