Before making the trip to Vizag (Visakhapatnam), like the rest
of other curious visitors, I naturally Google searched on the attractions the
city had on offer. Truth to be told I wasn’t expecting to see Buddhist sites attractions
popping up during the search. I was pleasantly surprised!
I visited Thotlakonda and Bavikonda Buddhist complex
on the second day during my three days stay. Thotlakonda, the 2000-year-old
Buddhist heritage site, is around 20 kms from the city. It attracts tourists
from across India and abroad.
I took a local bus from the city and got down at the ornate
welcome gate of Thotlakonda Buddhist Monastery, right next to the main road at
the foot of the hill. The welcome gate is built in a Buddhist style. There is
an entry fee. I had to walk for nearly 15-20 min on the winding road uphill
from the gate. It helps if you have your own vehicle which makes it easier to
go up the hill instead of walking.
 |
Thotlakonda
|
My attentive eyes noticed the beautifully maintained road from
the welcome gate to the main entry gate. The blooming white and pink bougainvilleas added colours to the place. As I walked higher up the hill in the hot sun,
the blue sea (Bay of Bengal) and the coastline came into view as well. It was a
sight to behold! I stopped occasionally to enjoy the scenic views and take rest under the shade of a tree.
 |
blooming bougainvillae in Thotlakonda
|
 |
the way to Thotlakonda
|
 |
| statue of Buddha in Thotlakonda |
 |
| way to Thotlakonda |
 |
| scenic view from Thotlakonda |
I finally reached the main entry gate. There is a small concrete
house on the left side of the gate. A notice board informing about the "availability
of guides" stared at us from the verandah. But the said house was locked and it looked deserted.
 |
info board at Thotlakonda
|
 |
guide info at Thotlakonda
|
 |
| info board at Thotlakonda |
The info board near the gate provided me the following tidbits
about Thotlakonda Buddhist monastery. The ruins of the monastery complex were first
identified by the Indian Navy during an aerial survey in 1976. The name
Thotlakonda means “thotla=troughs”
and “konda=hill”. It had flourished
some 2,000 years ago. There are several rock-cut cisterns in various sizes, shapes,
and depths obviously for storage of rain water to meet the drinking requirements
of the monks. A circular chaitya griha (prayer hall), a congregation hall, a
kitchen and dining hall are some of the structures discovered at the site.
The
dome of a maha stupa collapsed due to heavy rains a few years ago. There is a
concrete path around the ruins and visitors are not allowed to venture away
from the concrete path while exploring the ruins. It would have been extremely
useful to the visitors if some info boards were installed for each ruin. It
must also be mentioned the site resembled a jungle with overgrown bushes due to
lack of proper maintenance. Sorry state of affairs!!! Unfortunately there is also
no basic amenities like drinking water and washrooms for visitors at the
location.
 |
Thotlakonda Buddhist complex
|
 |
| the collapsed dome of maha stupa |
 |
| Thotlakonda Buddhist complex |
 |
| Thotlakonda Buddhist complex |
 |
| Thotlakonda Buddhist complex |
 |
| Thotlakonda Buddhist complex |
 |
| one for the memories at Thotlakonda |
 |
| Thotlakonda Buddhist complex |
 |
| Thotlakonda Buddhist complex |
 |
Thotlakonda Buddhist complex
|
 |
Thotlakonda Buddhist complex
|
After my exploration of the ruins, I retraced my steps back to
the main road. My next plan was to go to Bavikonda Buddhist monastery complex. Now, Bavikonda
monastery complex is located on another hill, at a distance of around two kms
from Thotlakonda Buddhist complex. I waited for some time before I got a shared
auto. The autowalla dropped me at the fork in the main road. I got down over
there. I waited at a tiny shop for another vehicle to take me to the top of the
hill. Another autowalla dropped me halfway at the foot of the hill. I had to walk again to reach the
top of the hill. Phew!!! What a way to arrive at a place!!!
I was tired by the time I arrived at the entry gate. I noticed
a lone solitary guard at the gate. There was hardly anyone at the isolated site.
It was empty except for the guard and me. Thankfully after some time a few
visitors arrived at the site. Just like Thotlakonda Buddhist complex, even Bavikonda
monastery complex resembled like a jungle with overgrown bush everywhere due to
proper lack of maintenance
 |
Bavikonda
|
 |
| info board at Bavikonda |
 |
| info board at Bavikonda |
What I gathered from the information board at the entry gate is
that this Bavikonda complex is believed to be dated from 3rd century BC, the
golden age of Buddhism in India. The site was discovered by archaeologists, led
by a shepherd, in 1987. The word Bavikonda in Telugu language means “the hill of wells”. It was so called
because several shallow wells dotted the hill side years ago. Some of the
structures discovered here are chaitya griha, kitchen, dining hall, vihara,
votive stupa, and so on. The ruins are well maintained, but the grounds needed
to be cleared from the unwanted grasses. I wished individual info boards were
placed for each ruin with small details to make it helpful for the visitors. Visitors
couldn’t obtain comprehensive understanding about the place and its importance
in the absence of such detail info boards. The concerned authorities should
look into it and do the needful. Steps should also be taken for the proper
upkeep of the grounds
 |
Bavikonda Buddhist complex
|
 |
| Bavikonda Buddhist complex |
 |
| Bavikonda Buddhist complex |
 |
| Bavikonda Buddhist complex |
 |
| Bavikonda Buddhist complex |
 |
| Bavikonda Buddhist complex |
 |
| Bavikonda Buddhist complex |
 |
| Bavikonda Buddhist complex |
Suddenly I heard the whistle of the guard from afar. I
realised he was beckoning everyone to leave since it was time to close the
gate. The guard was kind enough to drop me till the main road on his bike. I returned
back to Vizag on a local bus.
If you are considering visiting these Buddhist sites, better
hire a private cab for a comfortable visit.
Thank you for stopping by!
Travelled on: 23 January 2020
© The content and images are copyright of Hema Hazarika
(thehaflonggirl).
No comments:
Post a Comment