Tuesday 11 August 2020

My Chattisgarh Diaries: Day Trek to Dholkal Ganesh

The beautiful 3 feet stone idol of Lord Ganesh is 1000 year old. It is believed to be from the Naga dynasty (10th - 11th centuries AD).
Dholkal Ganesh

Today I am going to share my trekking experience to Dholkal Ganesh. The trek to Dholkal Ganesh is one of the top activities to do in your Bastar itinerary. 

It was my fourth day in the Indian state of Chattisgarh. This particular trekking spot is in Dantewada district. Dantewada town is around 80 kms from Jagdalpur town. I boarded an early morning bus for Dhantewada from the main bus stand in Jagdalpur. It was around 6:00 a.m. It was cold; and during the entire 90 mins journey couldn’t see the landscape clearly as it was foggy. It was around 7:30 a.m. when I found myself at Dantewada town. I got down from the bus and asked around regarding transportation to go to Faraspal village. Faraspal is around 12 kms from Dantewada; and Dholkal base is around 20 kms from Dantewada which comes after Faraspal. 


HOW I REACHED

Truth to be told there is no frequent and proper transport facility between Dantewada town and Faraspal village. Someone showed me the exact spot where I needed to wait for a shared auto to go to Faraspal village. It was a long wait in the cold weather. I kept waiting. The shared auto was nowhere in sight. Finally around 9:30 a.m. someone pointed to a shared auto approaching the waiting spot. The auto was already and all were women. I somehow managed to squeeze myself on the seat. The well laid motorable road from Dantewada town to Faraspal village is surprisingly good. Most of the passengers got down one by one as their respective destination approached. The autowalla dropped me at Dholkal Bhawan after about 30-40 mins ride.

OR

You can hire taxis from Dantewada bus stand to the trekking base for a hassle free comfortable ride.


DHOLKAL BHAWAN

It is an office cum restaurant, 3 kms from Faraspal village. A community tourism initiative by the District Administration of Dantewada where local youths are trained as guides to provide them with a source of livelihood and job opportunities in the tourism sector. Night camping with dinner such as chapda chatni (red ants chutney) and the other tribal food can also be arranged, if informed to these guides at Dholkal Bhavan. 

I was warmly welcomed by the youngsters at Dholkal Bhavan upon my arrival. I kept my heavy backpack in the office. I sat outside basking in the January sun. I was served poha (fried puffed rice) for breakfast. Rested for a while basking in the January sun.

Dholkal Bhavan is an office cum restaurant which is a tourism initiative by the district administration.
Dholkal Bhavan
info board at Dholkal Bhavan

poha served on a leaf bowl

START OF THE TREK

Rina was my trek guide for Dholkal Ganesh. It is advisable to do the trek with a local guide because of the difficult terrain. Trek route is roughly around 4-5 km one way from the starting of the trek to the hill top. We started around 11:00 a.m. A little ahead we came across a clearing that served as the camping spot, near the base of the mountain. A water tank is next to the camping spot. Rina filled her empty water bottle here. Leaving behind the camping spot, we proceeded onward. The trail route now entered dense forest. The tall trees of the forest acted as a shady canopy from the blazing sun. That gave a lot of respite. We trekked as my ears listened to the melodious chirping of birds and other forest noises. A trunk of a fallen tree acted as a tunnel somewhere in the trail route.

Rina filling her empty water bottle

tall trees creating canopies

a fallen tree on the trail route

Small streams with very less water meandered along the trail that ended up as tiny waterfalls. We rested for a few minutes at one such stream. It was felt to be cooler here near the stream. We splashed our hot faces with the cold water of the stream. The trail route took a steep incline hereon. We came across lots of natural tree swings, something similar to hammocks on a steep slope. These natural hammocks are made by the aerial roots intertwining from huge trees. We stopped here to have some fun sitting on these natural swings. Though there was no animal spotting, but we caught sight of the occasional birds, insects, and not-to-forget huge ant-houses along the trail route. The ant-houses were a pretty interesting sight to behold.

small streams 
small streams 
small streams 
We found many huge ant-houses during the trek to Dholkal Ganesh.
huge ant-houses
natural swings
this looks like scale of a crocodile
trees of Bastar region
trees of Bastar region
the shaded trail route
small stream
The trek becomes more challenging during the last leg of 100-200m climb. In fact there is no proper trail as one has to climb steep boulders by grabbing the boulders and branches of plants. The climb is extremely technical and dangerous here. Rina proceeded ahead of me during this particular difficult climb. She removed her slippers before climbing. She instructed me where to place my foot on the uneven boulder and where to grab that made it easier to manoeuver the difficult climb. She took extreme care and made me feel safe during the climb. When I finally emerged and reached the top, the views of the valley from 3000 feet high made the climb all worthwhile. WOW!!! The top is also a major sunset point in Dantewada.

The statue of Lord Ganesh is placed on an isolated rock opposite to the platform at the top. It involved another level of adventure. LOL!!! One has to carefully climb down and again climb up. The platform was hot (it obviously got baked in the hot sun) and my bare feet somehow managed to climb down and up, and sit next to the statue. The beautiful location of Dholkal Ganesh at the top of the peak in the green Bailadila Mountain ranges leaves you speechless. You soak in the calm and serenity of the place.


DHOLKAL GANESH

The beautiful 3 feet stone idol of Lord Ganesh is 1000 year old. It is believed to be from the Naga dynasty (10th - 11th centuries AD). News reports said the statue was vandalized some years back. A local journalist found it 2012. This place was mostly visited by the locals to offer prayers to Lord Ganesh. No wonder you will notice remains of puja materials at the spot. Ever since its discovery, the place has become popular among the tourists who has adventure on their mind.

The beautiful 3 feet stone idol of Lord Ganesh is 1000 year old. It is believed to be from the Naga dynasty (10th - 11th centuries AD).
Dholkal Ganesh
The beautiful 3 feet stone idol of Lord Ganesh is 1000 year old. It is believed to be from the Naga dynasty (10th - 11th centuries AD).
Dholkal Ganesh
The beautiful 3 feet stone idol of Lord Ganesh is 1000 year old. It is believed to be from the Naga dynasty (10th - 11th centuries AD).
Dholkal Ganesh
Dholkal Ganesh
one for the memories at Dholkal Ganesh
Rina and me at Dholkal Ganesh
Dholkal Ganesh
getting mesmerized with the view at Dholkal Ganesh
The beautiful 3 feet stone idol of Lord Ganesh is 1000 year old. It is believed to be from the Naga dynasty (10th - 11th centuries AD).
Dholkal Ganesh

After spending an hour here, my guide Rina and I moved to a nearby rocky hill which once upon a time had a temple. Now there is just a trishul (trident). This as well involved climbing boulders.

Rina climbs down the boulder carefully

Rina waits for me as I climb down the boulder carefully

trishul (trident) at the top of the boulder hill
view of the mountains
view of the mountains

It was finally time for the return journey. While returning, Rina and I collected the trash we found on the trail route to dispose it in the dustbin at Dholkal Bhavan. We arrived at the base of the mountain by 4:00 p.m. Before reaching Dholkal Bhavan, Rina met her friends from the village near a tree. Rina pointed to me the earthen pot at the top of the tree. I was intrigued as to what was being collected in the pot. Rina informed it is Salphi tree (fish tail Sago palm tree). Sap is being collected from the tree. The elder man climbed the tree to bring some for me. The younger one poured the frothy white liquid on the leaf bowl. It is salphi which is a beer-like beverage consumed by the tribal folks of Chattisgarh. I thought I would get intoxicated, but nothing happened. LOL!!!

A man climbs the salphi tree to bring the pot collecting the sap.
the man climbing the salphi tree

my encounter with salphi beer...lol
Salphi is a frothy white beer-like beverage consumed by the tribal folks of Chattisgarh.
salphi beer

THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND

·        Wear comfortable clothes and shoes while trekking.

·        Take drinking water and keep yourself hydrated.

·        Take eatables such as fresh fruits, biscuits, juices etc. to eat during the trek.

·        Please bring back all your trash/litter and deposit it at the dustbin in Dholkal Bhavan.

·        Do not carry heavy backpacks since it will tire you.

·        Rather than keeping yourself plugged in with a headphone, listen to the forest sound and be at the moment.

·        Respect the integrity 0f the place.

·        Dholkal Gnaesh trek can be done throughout the year.

I realized I was exhausted by the time I reached Dholkal Bhavan. Rina and I had a late veg lunch there. I spent my night at Rina’s house that served as the tribal homestay. The modest tribal hut which was absolutely clean won my heart. I met with her family. I was served tribal dinner on plates and bowls made of leaves. That is such an admirable aspect of a sustainable and responsible tourism (the use of natural leaves as plates and bowls) initiative by the people here. I dozed off peacefully in the silence of the night.

Next morning before leaving Rina’s home, I interacted with the local ladies who came visiting her home. Rina and I had an early lunch. We returned to Dholkal Bhavan. After few minutes of waiting here, Rina’s uncle came who dropped me to the auto stand in Farsapal village on his bike. I didn’t had to wait for long. The auto arrived. I was back in Dhantewada again. I requested the autowalla to drop me at the famed Danteshwari temple.

a group pic with the ladies at Faraspal village
with Rina's mother at their home
local liqour
tribal lunch served in leaf bowls at Rina's home

Danteshwari temple is dedicated to Ma Danteshwari, the revered goddess of Bastar region. It is believed to be one of the 52 Shakti Pithas. It was built in 14th century by the rulers of Chalukya Dynasty. I spent sometime at the temple. Thankfully the temple wasn’t crowded. I boarded the afternoon bus for Jagdalpur town at Dhantewada bus stand.
Danteshwari temple is in Dhantewada town, Chattisgarh.
Danteshwari Temple

On arriving at Jagdalpur, I had a late lunch at a restaurant in the bus stand; and then immediately proceeded to Jagdalpur Railway station by auto. I would be boarding a late night train for Araku Valley (Andhra Pradesh).

...and in this way my visit to the beautiful state of Chattisgarh ended. I felt happy to get the opportunity to create beautiful travel memories here.

Thank you for stopping by! Happy travelling feet!


Travelled on: 17-18 January 2020

© The content and images are copyright of Hema Hazarika (thehaflonggirl).