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Sunday 18 August 2019

Things to Do in Haflong: Trek to the Summit of Hempeupet Peak, the 2nd Highest Peak in Assam


Haflong is a small hilly town nestled in the Borail Range. It is the only hill station in Assam. It is the district headquarter of Dima Hasao. The hilly town is blessed with scenic beauty and natural landscape. It is home to many tribes such as Dimasa, Zeme Naga, Hmar, Kuki, Hrangkhol, Biate, Karbi, Vaiphei, Khelma, Jaintia; and non-tribals such as Bengali, Assamese, Nepali, and Manipuri.

The Borail Range looms large over the picturesque town guarding it like a sentinel. Hempeupet Peak (1,736 mts) is the second highest peak in Assam located in the Borail Range. Hempeupet Peak is also called Borail Peak. It is also known as Simit Bung in Kuki dialect. For a long time I had the desire to trek to Hempeupet Peak. The trek to the summit of Hempeupet Peak starts from Notun Leikul village, a small village of Kuki tribe, at the foothills of Borail hill range. Inspite of being from Haflong, I could never materialized this desire. It all changed in February 2016. I returned home for a short winter break. Upon reaching home, I called up one of my friends, Ruthi. She had acquaintances in Notun Leikul village and enquired about the availability of a trek guide. Upon confirmation about the availability of a trek guide on a certain date, I eagerly waited for that day to arrive.

The day of the trek arrived. I took an auto from the main market of the town to go to Notun Leikul village. It's far from the town at a distance of 10 kms. Travelling on the bumpy road, I arrived at the village by 10:30 a.m. On enquiring from a few village folk the way to the gaonbura's (village headman) house, I went to meet him. He arranged the trek guide, Mr Mangboi for me.

Mr Mangboi and I started the trek around 11:00 a.m. Frankly speaking it's quite late to start trekking at that hour. It is always advisable to start early. Nevermind! It takes around 2-3 hours to reach the summit depending on your stamina and speed, and 1 hour while coming down.
Mr. Mangboi walking ahead of me during the trek to Hempeupet Peak 
a worn out cemented trail to Hempeupet Peak 
Mangboi walked ahead and I followed behind him. We passed a few houses before arriving at the trek trail. The trail was well-marked with steps and worn out cemented path in the initial parts and before reaching the summit; narrow country trail in the rest of the trail. Steep trail in many parts that left me almost out of breath. The trail passed through evergreen forests with many tall trees, plenty of bamboo, and large patches of natural grasses. The forest was abuzz with forest sounds and the constant twittering of many birds. The birds remained unseen and I could hear only the twittering and chirping. Without an iota of doubt, the Borail Range will be loved by the ornithologists. Most of the trail was covered with thick canopy of the evergreen and semi-evergreen forest and sunlight trickled through the gaps to reach the ground. The fallen dry  leaves on the forest trail crushed under the weight of our shoes.
the trail carpetted with fallen dry leaves
Mangboi was far ahead of me while I took my time to slowly catch up with him. He cut a small stem of a bamboo plant and handed it to me to use it as a trekking pole. How thoughtful of him! The cemented path gave way to narrow trails with thick overgrowth all around. After about an hour of trekking, we arrived at a grassy patch with tall natural grasses all around which appeared after a bend in the trail. A few pictures taken around the bend.
Borail Range up close
hazy view of Borail Range 
 As we approached the grassy stretch, a narrow trail on the right led towards a small hill which offered incredible up close views of Borail Range. The trail on the left led to the summit of Hempeupet Peak.
the grassy patch with tall grasses 
grassy patch with tall natural grasses 
dry grass
Mr. Mangboi relaxing at the grassy patch
can't get enough of this beautiful grassy patch with tall natural grasses 
everything is dry since it is wintertime

We stopped here (at the point where the right and left trail met) for some much needed rest. I bought a few eatables to eat during the trek which I also shared with Mr Mangboi. This stretch of the trail with the grassy patch is heavenly. The grasses swayed in the gentle wind. The reverie of this short happiness was broken when I looked up and saw dark clouds drifting across the sky. It looked it might rain. Mr Mangboi looked at me and said, "Let's go back. It might rain. You can trek to the summit some other time." I sank into sadness and misery hearing him say those words. I pleaded and beseached him, "Please let's carry on. I got a chance to do this trek after a long time. I have no idea when I will be able to do it next. Pleaseeee..." He looked at my almost pitiful face and slowly said, "Okay let's continue with the trek." I was relieved.
dark clouds drifting across the sky
The trail got steeper as we climbed up and up. We came across an open shed made with four poles and a single tin roof. A solitary steel bench lay resting under the tin shed. This shed would come handy for trekkers to take shelter during rain. This shed is also an indication that the summit to the top is almost near. During our entire trek up to this point, we hardly encountered any human being other than us. But as we crossed this shed, we saw a man coming down carrying a heavy load of fresh timber on his shoulder. The man must have chopped some trees.
the first waiting shed at the trail route to Hempeupet Peak 
tall evergreen trees
the only other human that we encountered during the trek 
trail route with support on one side
steep trail route to Hempeupet Peak 
We trekked few more metres on the narrow uneven trail before arriving at the sight of few concrete stone steps. I climbed those few stone steps and I noticed I have landed at a clearing. I also noticed an open tin shed with three steel benches, two long wooden benches supported by stones, and few big stones used as sitting arrangements around what seemed like a fireplace under the tin shed. Mr Mangboi informed me that we had reached the summit of Hempeupet Peak and this was the camping spot. I was stunned and overjoyed at the same time. Yaay, we made it! We reached the summit. I was a happy girl. It was 2:00 p.m. Mangboi was already busy in preparing to make a small fire at the fireplace so that we could warm ourselves. It was cold at the summit. The periphery of the summit had a short fence on one side and the rest of the area had tall grasses on all sides. Since it was February and wintertime; and so the grasses were bone dry.
....and I arrived at the summit of Hempeupet Peak...hurray
the waiting shed at the camping spot of the summit
unable to see surrounding views from the summit due to the haze 
the waiting shed at the camping spot of the summit of Hempeupet Peak 
We noticed trash around the camping spot. Mangboi and I collected the trash such as plastic bottles and chips/biscuits packets and burnt it in the fireplace. It was hazy and so lost the opportunity to see splendid views of Haflong town, the valley, and surroundings from the summit. We spend an hour or so at the summit. We left around 3:00 p.m. Before leaving we made sure the fire was put down completely. Because even a small spark could be dangerous in a dry weather. We retraced our steps through the same trail. During the return journey, Mr Mangboi pointed out some trees and told me their names. The forest is rich in flora and different varieties of plants and trees. The trunks of the tall trees were covered with creepers and vines of all kinds. He wanted to take banana stems for home, and when he saw some plants...He carefully made his way to cut a bunch of the banana stem. He cleaned the unnecessary outer cover of the stem and took only the tender white part of it.
tree trunk covered with creepers
We continued our downward journey and then we saw the first glimpse of the few houses of the village. We reached where we started from in the morning. It was 5:00 p.m. I was delighted to have completed the trek to Hempeupet Peak. A sense of pure joy engulfed me.
the return journey 
Mr. Mangboi the trek guide
first view of Notun Leikul village while returning from the summit
village folk of Notun Leikul village busy in work 
a shop in Notun Leikul village 
that's how tribal people carry their kids 😊
the signpost of Notun Leikul village 
We made our way to the gaonbura's (headman) house. I paid the trek fee to the gaonbura. It was 500 INR. I spent sometime at their huge kitchen interacting with the other family members. Mr. Mangboi had been a good trek guide. Thanking them for their hospitality I finally departed from Notun Leikul village around 5:30 p.m.

By the way, there is a basic homestay facility at the village. You can get a feel of village lifestyle by staying with a local family.
Oh yes, you can also camp for a night at the summit of Hempeupet Peak.

Indeed the trek to the second highest peak in Assam was exhausting, but it was also rejuvenating. The gruelling three hours trek to the summit and another two hours while descending gave me the wonderful opportunity to be outdoors and to be amidst nature. I was mesmerized seeing Borail from a close range. My phone camera remained busy in capturing the beauty.

Thank you for stopping by!
Happy Travelling feet!

Trekked on: February 2016


How to Reach Haflong:
Air: Nearest airport is in Guwahati and Silchar
Road: There is direct govt. bus service from Guwahati ASTC (morning departure) and private Network Travels (night departure).
There is direct sumo service from Silchar to Haflong.
Rail: There is direct train service both from Guwahati and Silchar to New Haflong Railway Station.

Where to Stay:
Circuit House, Hotel Elite, Hotel Landmark, Hotel Eastern, Hotel Jayashree, Nothao Lodge.

Places of Interest around Haflong:
Jatinga, Maibang, Panimoor, Thuruk, Garampani, waterfall in Samparidisa village. Besides many tribal villages are scattered all over where one go and explore tribal lifestyle of the village folk.


©All contents and images are copyright of Hema Hazarika (thehaflonggirl).

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