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Friday 7 June 2019

The Bus Ride to Pangong Tso

The song played "Wake me up when September ends...", but I dreamt and wished upon the travelling stars, a long pending travel wish to "Pack my backpack and travel to Ladakh before September ends".

On 28 September 2017 caught an early morning Jammu and Kashmir govt. bus around 7 a.m. at Leh town. This rickety govt. bus was my only budget option to take me all the way to Spangmik village, the small Ladakhi village situated on the banks of the gorgeous Pangong Tso. Imagine waking up at an ungodly hour to catch the only bus! And, I am not even a morning person. 😉 I become a morning person only and only during my travels. The temperature of Leh at that ungodly hour, on that early September morning was wintery chilly. Woollen cap, muffler wrapped cozily around my bare neck, two sweaters worn with a jacket, gloves, warm pants underneath my navy blue jeans...thus I was dressed, from head to toe, to beat and take on the chilly temperature. 😀 Thankful to Mr Dorjay, the owner of the hotel, where I stayed in Upper Changspa, who dropped me in his car to Leh bus station that cold September morning.

                                  the Jammu and Kashmir govt. bus somewhere on the way

I noticed most of the seats in the bus were occupied by travellers and there were only a few locals. The bus fare was priced at  270 bucks (INR) from Leh town to Spangmik village. Being a govt. bus I assumed it wouldn't start on time. But I was proved wrong. Much to my surprise and delight, the engine of the bus roared breaking the silence of the early morning as the bus started on time i.e. exactly at 7:00 a.m.

                      one of the check post where tourists need to show their Inner Line Permit (ILP)

All the travellers/tourists are required to show their Inner Line Permit at two check posts: Karu and Durbuk.

The bus passed through amazing terrain and landscapes and high passes. Barren mountains with clear blue sky skies and floating clouds became our companions. Occupying the precious window seat, I was a wonderstruck child throughout the bus ride. My happy eyes drank in the views of the magnificent landscape. It was intoxicating!



The tired bus stopped at Tsoltok (it is before Durbuk check post) for a few minutes. All of us got down one by one to stretch our numb muscles and to answer nature's call. The bone-chilling cold hit us. I couldn't feel anything. Inspite of wearing three layers of warm clothing, I was freezing. I thought I would metamorphose into a snow-woman. Phew!!

The bus resumed it's journey. The rickety bus rattled as it journeyed carefully through the difficult terrain. The windows rattled, too. One of the window panes fell into pieces. Some of us couldn't help, but laugh at it. There is a bridge before one arrives at the spot where one gets the first view of Pangong Tso. Five kms before that particular bridge, the bus broke down. The driver tried and tried to start the bus, but to no avail. And since the bus was bang in the middle of the road, vehicles piled up on both sides. A little traffic jam in the middle of nowhere!! Time passed. A few army trucks arrived. The army guys with the help of others pushed the bus to one side of the road. Now, the vehicles that were stuck could pass easily. The bus driver informed the passengers that it might take time (he couldn't say how long) for the bus to start again. On hearing the not-so-hopeful news, most of the remaining passengers got down and started to walk towards Pangong Tso.

                                                    that's the broken-down govt. bus

I, too, got down and along with two other Asian tourists started walking on that lonely road in the middle of nowhere. It was 3:00 p.m. Since I was carrying a small backpack, it made walking easy. There were four other travellers who were walking far ahead of us. Luckily they got a lift in a car, which they signalled to stop, midway.

The three of us and another two Indian guys kept looking for vehicles. Two-three vehicles came, but unfortunately none of them stopped since they were all full of passengers. We carried on with the walk. We crossed the bridge.
After 30 minutes of walking in that surreal terrain, the sight of a mini van approaching made us jump with joy. I signalled it to stop. It stopped, thankfully. When the door of the mini-van was opened, I noticed it was filled with middle-aged Ladakhi ladies. I asked, without addressing anyone in particular, whether they would be willing to drop us till Spangmik village. In addition, I also narrated to them what happened to our bus. They immediately nodded and the five of us happily boarded the mini van.

                             the first view of the famed Pangong Tso, in the far background 

While chatting with the friendly ladies, I came to know they were on their way to Chushul. The mini-van dropped me and the other two Indian guys till Spangmik village. The two Asian tourists didn't get down with us. They informed us that they would deboard at Merak village. The driver of the mini-van asked us to pay 20 bucks (INR) for the ride. We paid the fare. Before bidding adieu, I thanked them for dropping us till Spangmik village. It was 4 p.m.
                        a quick selfie in the moving mini-van with the friendly Ladakhi ladies

Once I got down at Spangmik village, I walked around the small village looking  and enquiring for budget homestay. I found one which was recommended by many on FB travel group where I posted my query before the Ladakh trip. It was Sasoma Homestay. Paid 500 bucks (INR) per night with breakfast and dinner. Not bad at all. Highly recommended!


                              Sasoma Homestay signboard and the location of the homestay

I freshened up and rested. It had been a long, tiring, and thrilling day. The long journey made me super hungry. Quickly had the simple home-cooked dinner of rice, dal, and sabji and retired for the night. I stayed for two nights and two days at Spangmik village. Wish I could have stayed longer! There is always the next time...I consoled myself. Always!😊

to be continued...

Thank you for stopping by!

Keep travelling and exploring.

Travelled on: 28 September 2017
©All the content and images are copyright of Hema Hazarika (thehaflonggirl).

2 comments:

  1. Good travel history... 😁... Keep share your moments...

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    Replies
    1. @AndresiN Thank you for stopping by and for taking the time to go through the post. 😊
      Sure, I will hopefully be sharing my travel moments with the world.

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